Detail Oriented Menswear

They say God is in the details. And for those viewing menswear designers and heritage brands at Capsule and Project this past week, there couldn't have been anything more heavenly than the attention to detail artfully manifested in so many pieces. 

From mixes of disparate fabrics like denim and unwashed wool for new sport coat hybrids to anchors patterned into sport coat sleeves to rattlesnake vertebrae or feathers attached, tie-pin like, on neck wear, attention to detail spoke volumes.

 Klaxon Howl's combo tailored "jean jacket" coat of Japanese denim and unwashed Quebecois wool

  Number:Lab's khaki and charcoal "letterman" jacket with 1/2 knit cuff sleeves

 Anchors away: wearing your tat on your sleeve

Ribbon detailing sewn onto waistband of flannel trousers

The designer's family crest details Fahlgren's label on ties and mufflers

 

  Sweater caps knit by "French grannies"

 Hang tags that espoused heritage veracity, above, and a feelgood attitude, below

Jonathan Meizler's provocative collection of 

taxidermy-inspired couture neckwear at Title of Work

Menswear's Warm + Fuzzies

Menswear feels all warm and fuzzy these days. The "softer," more natural and organic, even, shall we say, zen-like side of menswear cozied next to pop up vintage shops, hand crafted accessories, performance camping gear, heritage and military outerwear and other essential must-haves for real guys -- who are shopping more and more for themselves these days -- during this past week's autumn/winter 2012 menswear shows. 

On hand were candles, natural woodsy soaps and room scents "wild crafted" and foraged from the forest, herbal tea concoctions being steeped and graciously offered for tasting, knit caps drop-stitched on site reportedly by real French grannies, custom-created personalized fragrances, shave-and-a-haircut sessions, ergonomic flasks and, of course, the chance to belly up to the bar for artisanal Bloody Mary's at Capsule or infused agave tequila at Project.

Salut to round one of the New York menswear shows.

Bellocq Tea Atelier brewing up Hindu Holiday

 Scents of Land candles

 

 Obie Kaufman pouring juniper tea

 

 

Izola circular flask

 Handknit by French grannies

 

D.S. & Durga custom scents

The Blind Barber set up shop outside of their LES environs

Bitter and Esters homebrew

Tanteo agave tequila bar

Capsule A/W 12 - Colorific and Detail Oriented

Capsule founder Edina Sultanik took show visitors -- nearly 1500 the first day -- on a walk through the woods earlier this week, stepping up the experience for Fall 2012, as she embraced a new warehouse venue on Washington Street and added the new "Above Tree Line" room dedicated to the outdoor enthusiast. 

 

 The new addition featured a wood chip and tree stump lined entrance and smelled of the manly scents of cedar and pine. You could close your eyes and feel lost in the woods. In a good way. The focus there on dual purpose performance cycling-to-office wear from Outlier, comfort camping gear from Poler Camping Stuff, essential oils, soaps and fragrances from Juniper Ridge and all natural water repellents from Otter Wax, among others. 

The rest of the nearly 250 exhibitors concentrated on lots of color, from saturated cranberries to mustards to dusted down  Fair Isle mixed with Nordic and Aztec patterns modernizing ski vests and jackets like the puffer here by Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen.

 

  
Patterns impressed, especially on these Guatemalan boots from Osborn, a company based in Greenpoint, NY.

Rugged, colorful by virtue of their soles, with hand stitched detailing and suede camo or leopard detail at cuffs, these mocs are made in Mexico by Caminando.

Hats by New Amsterdam coordinate with designer Mark McNairy's suede slip-ons.